8 Best Dior Looks by Raf Simons

Say it ain't so. This morning, the news broke that Raf Simons would be leaving his post as artistic director at Dior. If you listening closely, you'll be able to hear the sobs of thousands of fashion girls around the world. Though his reign was relatively brief -- Simons was with the famed house for three and a half years after John Galliano's abrupt (and controversal) departure -- it's undeniable that the Belgian designer brought a cool, modern energy to Dior. So in the memory of sartorial greatness, let's take a stroll down memory lane, shall we? Scroll away for the Trendologist's favorite Dior looks by Raf Simons.

Fall Couture 2012, Look 25: Christian Dior had his treasured "New Look," and Galliano has his exuberant flair. But Simons? His aesthetic is an updated mix of the two: progressive like Dior, but winked at Galliano's drama. From  his debut collection, it was obvious that his interpretation would be coveted by the industry's cool girls, and this look from his premiere collection hits the sartorial nail on the head. The combinaton of a fitted, ankle-length trouser and mullet-esque top is the perfect blend of masculine and feminne. Plus, that rich cobalt hue (which almost perfectly matches Simons's flower-adorned walls) is enchanting.

Autumn Ready-to-Wear 2013, Look 2: Leave it to Simons to consistently server up some innovative silhouettes. Sure, peplums are nothing new to the design world; however, this one-sided peplum helps accentuate a woman's figure without looking cliched . And the high-slit, which accompanies the origami-like pop, gives this frippery a seductive twist. But before you write off this dress as "modern, white and that's about it," the illustrations on the peplum add a fun touch.  Look familiar to you? That's because Jennifer Lawrence rocked this frock to an event for Catching Fire  in Cannes a few years ago.



Fall Couture 2013, Look 15: If you've seen the brand's new documentary, Dior and I, you'll know that crafting a full couture collection is a lot of work. With a fully-stocked atellier, it's no surprise that the French house always delivers. But this look perhaps best highlights the TLC that is reqired: while the semi-sheer garment is delicate, the tough accessories create this admirable push-pull factor. And don't tell us that you're not going ga-ga over this texture. Forget silks, lace, and neoprene: the fine ruffles are pure genius. Don't you just want to stick your hand through your screen and touch this? You can't, sorry. And for those who haven't seen the documentary:go out and do so immediately.

 

Spring Ready-to-Wear 2014, Look 52: As any fashion fanatic who memorizes runway shows knows, this wasn't the crux of Simons's spring 2014 collection. Instead, most of the collection consisted of embellished dresses, sleek pantsuits, and colorful skirts. But for the finale, a sea of silver jacquard dresses ran rampant on the catwalk. Mixed with the flora of all varities hanging from the ceiling, it was the fashion moment unapologetic girly girls dream of.  This look in particular balances the high-drama of a full metallic skirt with a simple black sleeveless top, not to mention the embellished patch provides a fun, collegiate addition. And the (obivous) moral of the show is this: finales can easily leave more of a mark than the collection itself.



Fall Couture 2014, Look 3: Throughout Simons's reign at Dior, there has been a heavy dose of references from the 18th century: petticoat-like outerwear, scultupural skirts and pretty pastels, for example. This perpetual inspiration undeniably reached its apex at the designer's fall 2014 couture show. From dreamy duster coats to voluminous eveningwear,  it was a collection that Marie Antoinette and today's street style star would both adore. Traditional but not literal, this dress oozes perfection. The slim bodice coupled with an exaggerated drop-waist creates an unusal, yet flattering, silhouette while the pretty palette grounds this girly look.



Autumn Reaty-to-Wear 2014, Look 21: While at Dior, Simons took a liking to sleek black pantsuits and dainty pastel dresses. But when he injected some potent hues in his collections? Wow. Some may think that cherry red and cerulean blue may look too patriotic when paired together; however, this look is cool, offbeat and quite secular. As a whole, this dress is the perfect balance between simple and complex: the primary colors are stimulating instead of snoozy, the overall shape is fuss-free while busy bodice creates some much-need tension and the soft embroidery challenges the smooth textile. Swoon.

Spring Ready-to-Wear 2015, Look 47: Most of Simons's memorable looks at the house were dresses that graced ad campaigns, editorials and red carpet sightings. But let's not forget his fantastic use of coats and pants. Tinged with a Vicotrian flair, Simons continued to blend feminity and masculinity in his later years. And what's even more commendable about this look is the apparent versatility, comfot and ease. While most of us love avant-garde ensembles, incoproating them into our daily lives is a struggle. This get-up, on the other hand, would look just as good at the office or a party as it does on the runway. And don't those pants scream, "Wear me now"?

Spring Ready-to-Wear 2016, Look 10: As anyone with a pulse on the fashion spectrum could tell you, lingire-inspired clothes is a big trend for this coming spring. And while most brands opted for the literal iteration with lace-adorned slips, Simons gave his take on this trend a softer twist. Sure, the sheer skirt is sublty sultry; however, the whole look perfectly blends a Grecian goddess with the likes of a ski bunny. Two very different references, but somehow it works. But that's the beauty of Dior: it's provoking and sultry, but not overtly sexy. Even in 2015, the Dior brand still sticks to its ladylike roots and remains current.

All runway images courtesy of Vogue Runway
 

Which Raf Simons for Dior looks are you still thinking about? Sound off below!

xx

5 Favorite Trends from Pre-Fall 2015

To the untrained fashion follower, resort and pre-fall collections experience middle child syndrome. Unlike ready-to-wear or couture collections (let's take a brief moment of silence to reflect upon the sheer beauty that was Valentino's Sala Bianca 945 collection, shall we?), the intermediate seasons tend to be overlooked. Besides Chanel's Austrian runway and Dior's Tokyo show, pre-fall and resort shows rarely require big-ticket venues and an A-List front row. Not only do these collections have the longest shelf-life, they oftentimes provide shoppers with the most wearable pieces. Stretching over several weeks, not to mention an entire holiday season, keeping up with the latest pre-fall shows is no easy feat. For a condensed review of the créme de la créme, check out these five must-shop pre-fall trends.

Bold Monochrome

Preen by Thorton Bregazzi, Look 23

Monochromatic dressing is not an earth-shattering revelation: goths and stereotypical city dwellers have been sporting this look for years. However, giving this classic styling strategy a jolt of life with high-octane hues is perfect for pre-fall. Yes, these looks may highlight one color; however, each designer's take on this trend offers a different feel from the next. With a flouncy peplum and a silky texture, Preen's variation  is unapologetically girly and au courant at the same time. At Gucci, Frida Giannini presented a strong competitor for the modernized Carmen Sandiego's ensemble with a belted jacket and flared trousers. It was an utter throwback at Tomas Maier with a leather newsboy-inspired cap and a cinched sueded trenchcoat-- talk about blast from the past! If you're craving a relaxed, colorful outfit, look no further than Lemaire's combination of oversized jackets and baggy pants. With a more muted color palette than the rest of the trend's pack, The Row's earthy green getup offers an effortless, new-aged vibe.

Unconventional Checks

Derek Lam, Look 2

Every few seasons, tartan makes a comeback. This time, however, plaid's quirky cousin (the windowpane check) is back with a vengeance. Designers are at all marks on the spectrum with polished palettes and mismatched ensembles. With contrasting color palettes, Derek Lam offered a quirky mod vibe with his double-barred checks. Proenza Schouler's Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough revitalized an otherwise tired version of this print with lengthy fringe and boxy figures. At Christian Dior, Raf Simons smartly paired wide checks with short, A-line dresses and dainty jackets. The end result? Something that's as traditional for any Londoner yet progressive enough for a Tokyo townie. Ever so preppy, Tory Burch mixed clean windowpanes with touchable stripes and autumnal tones. But of course leave classic elegance to Lanvin's Alber Elbaz, who played it cool with a cinched silhouette in an undeniably chic black and white combination. 

Micro Mini Dresses

Valentino, Look 7

Over the past few seasons, the runways have run rampant with 60's and 70's inspired apparel and accessories: wide-legged pants, a-lined skirts, and up-to-there boots are just a few examples. In keeping with the industry's retro vibes, and adding a flirty flare to the pre-fall collections, micro mini dresses are exactly what your wardrobe has been craving. Between the high-octane color palettes and op-art patterns, Giulietta's slew of mini dresses perfectly encompass that groovy spirit. Meshing feminine florals with celestial prints, Valentino's shortened hemlines rejigger patterns that are also projected on red carpet-worthy silhouettes. Leaving little to the imagination was Francisco Costa's array of sexy baby-dolls at Calvin Klein. While Calvin's collection showcased pretty pastels that would've been visionary on a young Brigitte Bardot, Fausto Puglisi's ultra-minis come in vibrant hues with warrioress embellishments. On a less sultry note is Erdem's balloon-esque shape. But don't write this look off as a childish dress: the semi-sheer fabric offer a tongue-in-cheek element to an otherwise innocent frock.

Touchable Coats

Stella McCartney, Look 14

On a chilly morning of after a long day, nothing feels better than wrapping yourself in a heavy fabric. A heavy coat has always acted as a sartorial hug; however, pre-fall's array of coats are extra covetable. With fuzzy exterior, these picks bring huggable to the next level. And thanks to a slew of different variations, there's a textured coat out there to satisfy every style savant. Available in a vest, Stella McCartney's shaggy coat is begging to be worn. With McCartney's passion for environmentally-friendly goods, it'll be hard to find someone who has any objections. Equally as cozy (not to mention zany) are the bevy of furs in brooding neutrals from Sonia Rykiel. Chloé's Clare Waight Keller joined the texturized bandwagon with a combination of neutrals and patchwork picks. From a simple shearling collar to a full-on shag coat, Burberry Prorsum's picks range from zero to 100 in a single collection. If you're looking for a cozy coat that is free of any Penny Lane associations, Balenciaga's  teddy trench offers a polished take on this trend. 

Thought-Provoking Tweed 

Thakoon, Look 11

Over the years, tweed has received a nasty reputation of  being strictly suitable for grandmothers worldwide or stiffy trophy wives. Gone are the days when "tweed" and "hip"belong in two separate sentences. With the help of some smart styling, as displayed by the latest pre-fall collections, tweed is cooler than ever. Take Thakoon's selection of tweeds, for example, which are paired with androgynous clogs. The ultimate way to bid any pre-historic connotations ado. With an unmistakable penchant for the textile, wide-leg trousers and airy maxi-dresses spiced up Chanel's classic tweed. Conversely, Maiyet's tweed was instantly revived with the looks' accompanying mismatched prints. To give an old fashioned a contemporary twist, the geniuses at DSquared2 coupled tweed with leather. Not a typical match made in heaven, but consider us sold. Tweed is usually associated with fitted jackets and skirts; however, Fendi defied all expectations by opting for a beautifully voluminous coat.

Which pre-fall trends are you obsessed with? Sound off below.
All runway photos courtesy of Style.com

xx

13 Favorite Runway Looks of 2013

Whether you're dashing from show to show or examining every look on Style.com, fashion month is the ultimate time for style savants to gush over the latest silhouettes, most delicious fabrics, and best emerging trends. But after thousands of looks, which have obviously been curated in your fashion-forward Pinterest boards, it's hard to remember every pleat, trouser, and shoe that sashays down the catwalk. However, there are some runway ready ensembles that are so ingrained into your memory that you can't get them out of your head.  In no particular order, here are the top 13 looks that will inspire me well into 2014.

Proenza Schouler Spring 2014 RTW, Look 21: I dare you to tell me you don't adore everything that Lorenzo Hernandez and Jack McCollough design. You can't, right? Exactly. The Parsons classmates turned Proenza Schouler masterminds always deliver perfectly au courant pieces. While their entire spring collection was to die for, I have a (not-so) healthy obsession with the finale looks. A cross bodice with metallic pleats? Perfection. What I love so much about this look is that it's unapologetically now and anyone who has a penchant for divine threads will adore this. Lauren Santo Domingo was spotted rocking a similar look from the spring collection as was Rooney Mara. And with the help of any secret admirer with endless connections and cash, I will also happily wear this look. But in cream, please. Wouldn't this make for the perfect New Year's Eve ensemble? 

Belstaff Pre-Fall 2014, Look 16: Bells and whistles asides, it's always comforting to see something on the runway that not only you would wear on a daily basis, but you can also copy with the clothes you already own. For me, this ensemble hit the nail on the head. Head to toe, I love this look so much that I can envision myself wearing it any day of the week (if weather permits). Belstaff has come such a long way since its waterproof jacket days, and I sincerely admire designers who can still make fashion upscale, yet accessible, to the masses. Brava!

Chloé Fall 2013 RTW, Look 3: I've been something of a cape fanatic for a couple years now. It all started with a short purple cape that I sported on my very first trip to London. In no time, my mere fascination accelerated into an obsession. Whether it was a black cape from a local boutique or a plaid cape on Brick Lane, I became so enamored with the feminine, yet powerful, image that capes brought. Isn't it about time Olivia Pope wears capes on the daily? A vibrant blue that stands out amongst a sea of black, this cape caught my eye months ago. When I saw it in person this summer, my feelings only increased. Paired with a sleek black dress and versatile boots, this look best exemplifies how to wear a cape without looking like an old maid.

Céline Fall 2013 RTW, Look 25: In case you didn't receive the memo, plaid was very big this fall. From Saint Laurent to Moschino, everyone was giving this lumberjack print a very chic makeover. Without a doubt, my favorite example of this trend was Céline's luxe tartan pieces. The traditional silhouette was paired with checks that gave us a new way to look at plaid. Phoebe Philo's heavy emphasis on the white lines offered a dash of minimalist modernity. The otherwise neutral ensemble made this a look that anyone could wear. It's perfect for the ambitious career woman, the Park Avenue housewife who is stopping by the latest PTA meeting before going out to eat, and even that downtown gal who's forced to go to an uptown gala. Try imagining yourself in this outfit. I promise you'll like what you see. 

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Spring 2014 RTW, Look 17: On a day-to-day basis, what fashionista doesn't want to wear an effortlessly chic ensemble? Exactly. No fuss, just fashion. I adore this look because it's the perfect way to get a high-octane impact without trying too hard. Whether you're going to work or a coffee date, this ensemble is the ideal way to tell onlookers that you're up to date with trends but don't need to flaunt them.

Christian Dior Spring 2014 RTW, Look 58: At first, it was an alarming combination: Raf Simons and Christian Dior. While the former is synonymous with pure minimalism, style spectators always know that Dior will provide feminine ensembles with a modern twist. Would Simons give the design house yet another New Look? While Simons has a perspective that is very different from his predecessor, John Galliano, his designs have yet to disappoint me. While his latest spring collection seemed promising, it wasn't until the slew of jacquard dresses that I knew I was in love. A far cry from Simons's usual aesthetic, this dress revived Christian Dior's flouncy reputation while keeping it updated. Raf, you had me at the floral ambiance.

Tibi Spring 2014 RTW, Look 10: Over the past few seasons, I've had the pleasure of watching Tibi turn into a premier American brand. While Tibi used to be the go-to line for flirty tea dresses and fun prints, I love the sportswear direction Amy Smilovic has taken. Without a doubt, the spring collection was my favorite Tibi show thus far. With a nature loving theme, I adore how this look channels street style modernity through a very "back to the basics" lens. If you give me an easy one-piece, I'll be happy; however, Smilovic's use of contrasting fabrics and accessories made this one look I will never forget.

Valentino Fall 2013 Couture, Look 47: Out of all the official couture design houses, Valentino always amazes me with its hypnotizing patterns, bevy of slim-fitting silhouettes, and all-around regal air. Everything about this dress screams "Dainty Princess." Even though it is entirely sheer, the modest undergarments prevent an outlandishly sultry moment. It's one of the looks that is so special, it should probably be in an everything-proof vault or framed. Thank you, Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri, thank you very much.

Carven Fall 2013 RTW, Look 25: Fall was the season of the coat. Though Carven featured gorgeous coats in dreamy pastels, this camel look is my favorite by far. There's something so standard about a camel ensemble; however, I strongly believe this hue is one of the most underestimated neutrals around. I love how this look is so sleek, yet the light pink and tan cracked top makes this more than another minimalist ensemble. Plus, those shoes are just divine! 

Dries Van Noten Spring 2014 RTW, Look 47: To be perfectly honest, it's impossible to categorize your style into one overarching adjective. You consider yourself "girly" until you swoon over a tough Balenciaga leather jacket. You're "classic" until you take a look at Prada's latest spring collection. And you're "minimalist" until you fall head over heels in love with Dries Van Noten's spring ruffles and dramatics pleats. I adore a clean, tailored ensemble; however, this look gives a neat look a frilly edge. Of course, you could never wear this look to the grocery store, however, Dries Van Noten gifts us with a relatively somber silhouette that doesn't compromise his extravagant collection. The long shorts are very Calvin Klein sleek while the top is reminiscent of something you would normally sport at the couture shows. The result? An outfit that deserves a standing ovation.

Stella McCartney 2014 Resort, Look 4: Every few seasons, there comes a collection that is 100 percent perfect. From the python print, to the embellished threads, to the floral patterns, Stella McCartney's cruise collection was just that. While the prints were indisputably feminine, McCartney pairs them with modern (and sometimes tomboyish) shapes. This look perfectly captures McCartney's design aesthetic for the cruise collection:
girly and current. I would like one of everything, please.

Altuzarra Spring 2014 RTW, Look 29: If Joseph Altuzarra's spring collection wasn't the most buzzed about New York collection, I don't know what was. Between the swarm of languid skirts and show-stopping metallics, this group of looks demand your undivided attention. I love this look because it combines the two focal trends from Altuzarra's collection without being too abrasive. To keep the attention on the gorgeous clothes, Altuzarra finishes this look with a pair of simple pumps. From date night to a charity gala, this look is the ultimate ensemble for any city's "It Girl."

Balenciaga Spring 2014 RTW, Look 37: If you didn't love enough Alexander Wang's eponymous brand label, he's been doing wonders at Balenciaga. Wonders, I say! For example, his spring collection was a perfect 

mélange of Wang's cutting-edge aesthetic and Balenciaga's high expectations. Old and new come together with this look: the silhouette is quite traditional, but sheer skirt mixed with the embellished dress bring something new to the table. J'adore!

Which runway looks did you love this year? Sound off below! 

All photos courtesy of Style.com

xx

Couture is Haute Again!

I'm literally beaming: this is the first time in a while that  I've been unbelievably pleased with couture. Most of the collections are innovative and the looks are breath-taking. Literally, breath-taking..Consequently,  it makes picking my absolute favorite collections that more difficult.

Christian Dior 

(Photo Cred)

It's official: I now have faith in Bill Gaytten. His previous couture collection almost made me sick to my stomach. While I'm a strong proponent for removing John Galliano after his scandal,  Dior's Couture Fall 2011 left me confused and genuinely upset. Spring 2012, on the other hand, is brilliant. The looks are less..volumized. Even though the silhouettes were not as "in your face" as before, the detailing, structure, and execution of each piece is definitely worth talking about. While these looks are definitely more wearable than your typical avant garde creations,the details really make this collection "couture worthy." The sheer looks bring out old school glamour  with  a hint of sex appeal. And those extravagant evening gowns? They definitely pay homage to Christian Dior himself while adding a modern twist. This collection actually makes me excited to see what else Gaytten has up his sleeve.

Givenchy

(Photo Cred)

I've been a little tired of Givenchy couture lately: for the past few collections, I felt as if  Riccardo Tisci gave us the same beautiful, white, and ethereal dresses. Sure, each dress is gorgeous; however, I was feeling a major case of deja vu.  As a skeptical New Yorker, I love me some black, so the white was a lot for me to take in.  This collection was just what I was looking for: dark colors and edgy detailing to-boot! One thing that I love about Tisci is that he really cares how a couture look appears from any and every angle: he puts just as much- if not, more- effort in the the backs of his creations . In addition to playing with color, Tisci also toyed with different necklines, materials, and silhouettes. The amount of variety Tisci put into this collection is absolutely inspring. Also, I really want Rooney Mara to wear this one.

Elie Saab

(Photo Cred)

Honestly, there's not much Elie Saab does that I hate. I know  I talk a lot about edgy attire; however, I am and will always be a girly girl. With every collection, Saab brings us beautiful silhouettes, feminine colors, and red carpet hits. Couture Spring 2012 strays away from his latest RTW collection by brining us gorgeous pastels. Although some of the colors and concepts are eerily reminiscent of Marc Jacobs' Resort 2012 collection, I don't mind. Mint is all the rage lately, so Saab is right on trend.  One thing that I love about Saab is his ability to perfectly pair details and silhouettes together. For example, he usually designs either a detailled, column dress or a volumized dress that's simpler. Ladies and gent, this is a collection to watch out for: we're going to see a lot of these looks again.

Valentino 

(Photo Cred)

By now, you should know how I feel about long sleeves. If you're new to my oh-so fabulous blog, let me break it down for you: I would wear sleeves all of the time if I could.  So obviously, I loved Valentino's latest couture collection. In this collection, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri utilize the use of sleeves- thank the fashion gods- and make them stylish. I love the patterns and out-of-this world detailing that accompany the sleeves. This collection radiates delicacy and femininity, which I love. 

Giambattista Valli

(Photo Cred)

I have a borderline inappropriate obsession with Giambattista Valli.  In my humble opinion, couture should be all about wearable art.  Every couture collection, Giambattista goes above and beyond to give us the most beautiful wearable art.  For example, how brilliant is the pink evening gown with that full train? What a fabulous mix between Audrey Hepburn and a modern-day fashionista.  Can we talk about the ruffles on that minimalist jacket?  I don't think so: it's simply too good for words. All of these fantastic details make fashion what it should be: fun. Also, I love how prominent the contrast between black and white is in this collection: it makes the detailing more chic.   Giambattista Valli juxtaposes these phenomenal looks with simplistic silhouettes. I'm casually in love with Giambattista. 

xx

The Finale

It has literally taken me forever to finally get the energy and time to write a runway report for Paris Fashion Week. In my mind, Paris is the perfect location to act as a finish line for Fashion Week. Yes, I may think of Fashion Week as a marathon but that's not the point. The city of lights gives us everything we could ever ask for: glamour, forward thinking, and beyond chic clothes. So let's cut to the chase, shall we?

VIKTOR & ROLF 

(Photo Cred)

This collection is absolutely brilliant: I love the juxtaposition between the sharp silhouettes and the ribboned details. The colors are very spring; however, it's not your typical "springtime with pastels" color palette. Overall, the collection is completely cohesive, yet each look is unique. The ball gowns are true show stoppers. Also, doesn't the turquoise and black color combination remind you a lot of the prom scene from Grease? Just saying.

ALEXANDER McQUEEN

(Photo Cred)

I was listening to the Black Swan soundtrack when I was flipping through this collection; let me just say that the combination was quite fitting! Every single look is absolute perfection. All of the silhouettes are phenomenal and I love the intricate details that accompanied every ensemble. I think this collection truly proves that Sarah Burton is a fabulous designer: she is innovative and this collection is so reminiscent of McQueen's work. In love. L-O-V-E.

BALMAIN

(Photo Cred)

For Paris Fashion Week, this is such a wearable collection! The separates are versatile and super chic. Each look is pretty different; however, the gold accents tie the whole collection together. While the silhouettes are rather simple, the detailing really give these looks a "wow" factor. Absolutely incredible.

ELIE SAAB

(Photo Cred)

I always get so excited for Elie Saab's collection because I instantly think, "RED CARPET SEASON." I'm borderline obsessed with the colors, sequins, and overall glamour of the whole collection. Each look is phenomenal and unique. There's not much I can say except for I'm SO excited to see these looks stroll down the red carpet. 

DIOR

(Photo Cred)

This collection is a complete redemption from Bill Gaytten's horrific Couture Fall 2011 collection. I'm so enamored with the ladylike silhouettes in this collection. The prints that are featured in some of the dresses equals AMAZING. These looks are wearable and I think they could look good on a variety of shapes and sizes. Beautiful! BUT WHO WILL BE DIOR'S NEW DESIGNER? It's killing me.

VALENTINO

(Photo Cred)

There are two things that I'm  obsessed with: color and lace. The fact that these two elements are in the same collection literally blew my mind. While this season's collection isn't as classic as Valentino collections usually are, it is FABULOUS.

PACO RABANNE

(Photo Cred)

This collection may not be the most wearable; however, the innovation  is truly remarkable. In my mind, this will be fashion in the future: the shine, the details, and the crazy silhouettes. Welcome to the future, I hope you like it.

Well, ladies and gent, that's the end of the Spring RTW 2012 extravaganza. I hope it was entertaining and informative.

xx

Luke-Warm Couture

I'm always so excited to see couture: the detail and the real artistic quality ceases to amaze me. Except for this season. Let it be known, ladies and gents, Fall 2011 Couture is one of the most disappointing couture seasons I have witnessed. I always wish that I grew up in the days of awesome couture. Hubert de Givenchy, need I say more? One day, I think to myself, fashion will retrieve back to the days of amazing couture. Still waiting. Now don't get me wrong, some of the couture collections were phenomenal, but they weren't incredible as a whole.  Now you're in for a little rant/ praise session.

CHRISTIAN DIOR

(Photo Cred)

Biggest disappointment of this season: Alber Elbaz, you're needed at Christian Dior . While Dior's couture is usually very similar in silhouette, each look is classy and chic. This, on the other hand, maintains some sof the previous silhouettes. And then some other stuff. Like that striped poncho?  Not a fan and I usually love ponchos! I think my main problem with this whole collection is how mismatched everything was. When done right, mismatched can be really chic and exude personal style. But when doen wrong,  as seen at Dior, it can look incredibly sloppy. And those 1970's inspired maxis towards the middle of the show? Where did that even come from? I'm sorry Bill Gaytten, but you're not impressing me.

GIVENCHY

(Photo Cred)

Givenchy couture never fails to have intricate details and universal approval. While this collection is beyond fabulous and beautiful, I feel like I've seen this collection before. Maybe Spring 2011 Couture?  And Fall 2010 Couture? Don't get me wrong, all three collections are gorgeous, but they're all too similar. Couture isn't supposed to be similar, it's supposed to be unique.  I'm really hoping to see something new next couture season. I'm thinking some color...

ARMANI PRIVE 

(Photo Cred)

Although I'm not a personal fan of this Asian-inspired collection, I will say that it's inspiration is focus and the collection, as a whole, is very cohesive. I do love collection cohesiveness so thank you, Giorgio! While the collection is very detailled, I don't really picture it hitting mainstream, which is kind of sad. The slick dress of Armani Prive's previous collection was so thought provoking and looked awesome on Anne Hathaway. Some of these looks, I think, will be good for editorials.  But I can't see anyone rocking these looks for the Emmys, Globes, SAGs, or  anything. 

GIAMBATTISTA VALLI

(Photo Cred)

Finally, this is the couture I was craving. Mr Valli is creating some amazing collections lately, I'm very impressed. From start to finish, this couture collection epitomizes glamour. And I think by now you must know how I feel about glamour.  Each and every piece has some artistic flare or intricate details that screams couture. Even the most basic looks have an  effortless allure to them, not just casual. There's something so effortlessly Parisian about some of the looks that I was smitten with. While I don't think she'd like full leopard ball gowns, some of these looks are so circa Audrey Hepburn, which I love.  Thank you, Mr. Valli for creating something truly amazing. Or else I probably would've gone into a fashion coma.

BOUCHRA JARRAR

(Photo Cred)

Boring, boring, and more boring. While I'm sure the execution of the looks were great, this is something I'd expect for Pre-Fall. I understand that big details might not be everyone's thing, but why spend time and money on a couture collection if you're going to produce anticouture? Where did the creativity go, Ms. Jarrar? Riddle me that.

CHANEL

(Photo Cred)

I think it's safe to say that Chanel made a comeback since its disappointing Resort show (okay...well I thought it was disappointing).  From classic suits to amazing gowns, Karl Lagerfeld gave us a lot to work with, literally. There were 69 looks!  While each look embodied its own personality, for lack of a  better term, the entire collection paid homage to Coco Chanel's original idea of a modernized and classic woman. Take the suits, for example: they are all so ladylike and the tweed is undeniably Chanel, but the silhouettes on some give this classic look a  splash of millenium style. The detailing  and artistic innovation of this collection makes it truly couture worthy. Beyond impressive. 

ELIE SAAB

(Photo Cred)

Besides the phrase "Winter Wonderland," I would describe this Saab collection as "a slew of Red Carpet looks." I guess my inner Rachel Zoe was coming out because I was thinking up potential celebrities to wear these dresses. I can't really say anything about the details or the technique because it's typical Elie Saab. In terms of the actual looks, I didn't expect anything more or less. It was just...typical Elie Saab. Although this may sound disappointing, it's not that much of a tragedy because Elie Saab couture is always beautiful, just predictable. ANYWAYS, let's talk celebs. Couldn't you picture Taylor Swift's thin figure and blonde curls in the short brown tulle number?  Or what about Olivia Wilde rocking the sparkling blue gown with a plunging V? Maybe Hailee Steinfeld rocking this white mini with cobalt blue clutch or some really funky jewels? And the oh so revealing beige and silver gown is so Beyonce it's painful. I could go on, but I think you understand where I'm coming from.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER 

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Well, Jean Paul Gaultier definitely wins the award "Collection that made me LOL." To be fair, this is typical Jean Paul Gaultier and the collection's creativity and innovation is so couture, but it's just way too crazy for me. I really have mixed emotions about this collection. It's not my personal taste; however, I do admire how unique it is. I think if I were to observe this in a smug way, I wouldn't be giving this collection the creative praise it truly deserves. I'll just leave it at this: like it or hate it, this couture fall is truly wearable art. Power to you, Mr. Gaultier!

AZZEDINE ALAIA

(Photo Cred)

This collection, more than any other couture collection I've ever seen, epitomizes couture for the modern woman. Thanks to old movies and my inner granny,  I'm spoiled by the idea of a minimalist couture: I always expect these fabulously over-the-top pieces and Oscar worthy dresses. I know it's a problem, but that's just how I think. Azzedine Alaia's was a happy balance of what I always expect and the reality of couture. The silhouettes weren't the full ball gowns that I envision; however,  I was enamored with this collection.  While a lot of people put emphasis on gowns and other looks, I loved the focus on jackets in this collection: a fabulous array of fashion staples. And the materials that were used to build this collection were so couture-worthy, yet wearable. Actually, I would describe this collection as wearable couture.  Yes, the looks were innovative, but nothing like Jean Paul Gaultier. Although I'm a personal fan of over the top couture, I'm okay with this too. After all, fashion is all about evolving. 

xx

Next in Line

Obviously, the fashion world has been in major sleuthing mode, trying to figure out the heir to Dior. Although many believe that Riccardo Tisci will inherit the fabulous throne, yes Dior is a form of royalty, there are still some other viable candidates: Alber Elbaz and Stefano Pilati. For those who may not know current designers, let me break this down for you.

Tisci= Givenchy

Elbaz= Lanvin

Pilati= YSL

Even though everyone I've talked to seems to be very pro- Tisci, I'm not so sure I feel that way. Sure, Riccardo Tisci is doing great things at Givenchy and straying away from the Audrey Hepburn look I always define Givenchy by. But I really think that Alber Elbaz would make a better fit as the head designer of Dior. 

•  Yes Tisci is a very talented designer, but I feel like he's making Givenchy more bohemian and youthful lately.  I love that for Givenchy, but I'm so used to Dior having a higher level of sophistication, for lack of a better word.  Even if you look at couture, Givenchy and Dior have two completely different looks. 

Photo Cred

Photo Cred

Givenchy has a generally typical silhouette throughout it's Spring 2011 Couture collection, focusing on artistic and free spirited designs. Dior has a plethora of unique silhouettes (hello, volume) and uses bright colors. If we even compare the FW RTW looks of 2011, Givenchy is more "street style" while Dior, although it was still ready-to-wear, had more drama.  These two design houses have two complete different looks so I just don't know if Tisci can be as great at Dior and still maintain Christian Dior's original integrity. 

• Alber Elbaz exudes a sense of drama in his Lanvin collections, let's remember how I called his latest collection "Tim Burton's Tea Party." But of course Dior doesn't want a carbon-copy of Galliano, since fashion is evolutionary. However, because the change in head designers is something sudden and probably wouldn't have happened if Galliano wasn't a anti-Semitic meanie, it would be easier for the brains at Dior to work with a designer whose designs are similar to Galliano's, yet offer something new. 

Photo Cred

Photo Cred

Throughout Alber Elbaz's career at Lanvin, he's been able to give us a plethora of different looks. Regardless of the inspiration, however, he has successfully brought drama to the table. Whether via sparkles, as seen in FW RTW 2004 (left) or volumized silhouettes in FW RTW 2011 (right). I feel like he would perfectly uphold the Dior name, while bringing his own creativity to the runway.

• Also, let's no forget that Tisci has only worked designed at Givenchy for six years, Elbaz has been at Lanvin for a decade. Riccardo Tisci has made his big break at Givenchy, so he is necessarily ready for filling  in Galliano's pointy shoes. Alber Elbaz, on the other hand, has worked at Geoffrey Beene, Yves Saint Laurent, and  Krizia. How's that for experience? Obviously, Elbaz can successfully head design for haute design houses and has enough credibility to prove it! 

You may wonder why I haven't brought up Stefano Pilati.

 Well here's why:

Personally, I'm not his biggest fan. Sure, Pilati has had a lot of hits at Yves Saint Laurent; however, I don't think he has yet proved himself worthy of the coveted Dior position. This may seem a bit harsh especially after being the successor to some incredible designers: Yves Saint Laurent and Tom Ford.  Of course you can't compete with Laurent, and Ford is a fashion genius, but Pilati just isn't just doing it for me. Also, Yves Saint Laurent doesn't do couture anymore, so how would we know that he would do well with couture? We don't...

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Just not Dior material. 

Also, and not to be an ego-maniac, but I'm apparently a college fashionista! 

xx