Spring 2015 Trend: Ranger School

From Michael Jackson's slew of slim-fitting jackets to Olivier Rousteing's Balmain Army, the fashion industry tends to look to military uniforms for inspiration. This spring, however, this seemingly masculine fad has received a feminine make-over. If the pepto pink background wasn't enough of an indication, Marc Jacobs's collection of voluminous skirts and structured duster coats, all of which adorned with oversized gold buttons, was a telltale sign that army chic would veer ladylike this season. For Sacai designer Chitose Abe, the secret to embracing this season's troop motif was infusing feminine textiles: sheer paneling and floral prints were mixed with a traditional olive green that is militia-ready. While some designers opted for girly shapes and fabrics, others used shorter hemlines to give the classic uniform a ladylike twist. When it comes to designing masculine-inspired pieces for the modern day woman, No. 21's Alessandro Dell' Acqua used accessories to give each look a modern, yet girly, flair. With the help of pretty canary shoes and a belt to cinch the waist, dress that could've doubled as a shirt for a boy scout was fit for a lady. Craving a sexier alternative to this trend? Rag & Bone's Marcus Wainwright and David Neville offered the perfect solution. A bomber vest and up-to-there shorts are key ingredients for a daring summer getup. But if you're searching for an ultra glamorous way to sport this trend, look no further than Ralph Lauren's show. Whether paired with bright, silky tops or loads of jewels, the New York designer proved that military garb is just as suited for the runway as it is the battlefields.

Marc Jacobs Look 3 

Sacai Look 38

No.21 Look 1



Rag & Bone Look 26

Ralph Lauren Look

1. Acne Studios 2. Zara 3. Manolo Blahnik 4. Karen Millen 5. Marc Jacobs 6. Band of Outsiders 7. J.Crew

Becoming an excellent soldier, let alone deeming yourself worthy of a Purple Heart, requires strength, courage, intuition and patriotism. Fortunately, sporting an army-inspired ensemble is much easier. Though unearthening your fitted military jacket is an easy, and economical, way to participate in the fad, there are many pretty pieces to feast your eyes on this spring. And from elongated vests to tailored shorts, this trend will appease any style savant's wallet. While you may be wary about this sartorial phenomenon, finding a flattering and feminine way to wear this trend is easy.  Cursed with a complexion that repels earthy neutrals such as khaki and olive green? Opt for a tailored piece in a subdued navy or black. Let's also not forget that there's a fine between a stylish, sophisticated ranger and childhood scout affiliate. Juxtapose your rough and tough apparel with luxe,feminine accessories: a sleek pump or extravagant pearl earring is a surefire way to up the sartorial ante.

Will you be joining the fashion forces this spring? Sound off below!

xx

Spring 2015 Trend: Springy Suede

As the temperature rises and the final snow-lined sidewalks are cleared, we are all itching to strip away our down jackets, flannels and velvet pieces and opt for lighter fabrics. While silk, cotton and linen are no-brainers for a warmer climate, suede has the tendency to raise a few eyebrows. This spring, however, the smooth cloth is wearable, refined  and undeniably chic. Showcased in dainty pinks, Jill Stuart’s series of on-trend separates gave a feminine twist to an array of slim silhouettes. Meanwhile, a grungier vibe was offered at Tibi’s runway show. Between the range of earthy neutrals and the raw textiles that were coupled with the tactile suede, Amy Smilovic's take on this trend was undoubtedly made for fashion's cool girl.  Citing Charlotte Rampling as an “invisible muse,” Jason Wu’s collection  provided an utterly elegant alternative to this trend. Flirty mini dresses and coats nipped at the waist in deep blue and olive, respectively, would’ve been just as stylish during Rampling’s time as they are today. Before her departure from Gucci, designer Frida Giannini gifted the Italian house with a seventies-inspired collection. In a sea of suede, Giannini’s textured top against flared jeans and a silk scarf truly sang. If you're yearning to take on a new sartorial challenge, look no further than Derek Lam’s seriously suede collection. With patchwork pieces and head-to-toe ensembles, the New York designer proved that this trend has street style appeal.

Jill Stuart Look 5

Tibi Look 26

Jason Wu Look 20

Gucci Look 13

Derek Lam Look 4

1. MICHAEL Michael Kors 2. Marc Jacobs  3. H&M 4. Topshop 5. Aquazzura  6. Jaeger

When it comes to trying your luck at this trend, accessorizing with a touchable shoe or purse seems like a no brainer. Chic as it may be, expand your wardrobe this season by investing in suede apparel —the results will be worth it.  And with a range of price points, there is no excuse not to give in to this fad. Easing into suede?  Instead of taking the plunge with one of Derek Lam’s full looks, opt for  equally-striking, streamlined separates. Start with a simple suede skirt and pair it with a crisp white button-down.  A girly halter is the next step, and will look fetching with a pair of boyfriend jeans. Or turn heads with suede trench in a versatile neutral. Last but not least, up the sartorial ante with a polished dress. But before you go ahead and explore the wonderful options this fabric has to offer, order a suede brush.  After all, nobody likes neglected suede.

Will you be investing in suede this season? Sound off below!

All runway photos courtesy of Style.com

xx

Spring 2015: On the Fringe

After a winter filled with debilitating blizzards, slick roads and slushy aftermath, there is light at the end of the tunnel. With spring just around the corner, scheming an outfit that consists of more than an oversized sweater, pair of jeans and clunky snow boots won't be easy. For instant outfit inspiration, take a look at the Trendologist's picks for top spring 2015 trends.

Over the past few decades, fringe has garnered a nasty reputation.  With devotees such as the Brady Bunch (satirical family included), Cher and Dolly Parton, the tasseled frippery veers more kitschy than sleek. This spring; however, designers across the board revamped the embellishment to win over the hearts of even the most skeptical style savants. At Céline, Phoebe Philo made fringe minimalist-approved by subtly adding the loud touch to simple knit tank dresses. The result? A low risk, low effort way to amp your wardrobe game. At the opposite end of the spectrum lies the array of multicolored, leather fringe skirts by Sonia Rykiel. Paired with slouchy, borrowed from the boys sweaters, this alternative offers a cool girl vibe. Looking to integrate the theatrics of this fad with the runway's bohemian revival, Isabel Marant's  fringed dress with a rope-bound waist perfectly blends the two. While Marant tapped into this trend's softer side, boy-wonder design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez opted for a sharp, geometric take at Proenza Schouler. Two toned strings, which hung from an intricately woven skirt, were matched with cut-out sweatshirts. But for those who are searching for an unapologetically girly way to wear this phenomenon, take a page from Giambattista Valli's lookbook and invest in a minidress that packs on the movement. From modern, to earthy, to unashamed feminine, there is no excuse not to give this trend a try.

Céline Look 4

Sonia Rykiel Look 19

Isabel Marant Look 31

Proenza Schouler Look 38

Giambattista Valli Look 14

1. Sea 2.Tamara Mellon 3. Zara 4. Rebecca Minkoff 5. J.Crew 6. Isabel Marant 7. Oscar de la Renta

When it comes to fringe, there's a fine line between being at the vanguard of spring fashion and channeling Thoroughly Modern Millie. Release your ensemble of any flapper undertones by opting for tassels in neutrals, or deep gem tones if you're looking to push the envelope. Whether you're  searching for a skirt or jacket, step away from the polyester to prevent your ensemble from appearing costumey and elect a more luxurious textile such as leather or suede.  As always, if you're not ready to take the style plunge, accessories continue to be an excellent launch point. A simple fringed sandal rejiggers an otherwise tame outfit while a tasseled earring will be utterly sophisticated with an evening gown.

Will you be exploring fringe benefits this spring? Sound off below.

Runway photos courtesy of Style.com

xx

Designer on the Rise: Max Gengos

Don't let Project Runway fool you: breaking into the fashion scene as an emerging designer isn't as easy as competing in a televised reality show, where excelling in several cut-throat challenges merits a place at New York Fashion Week. It takes a very special person with extreme perseverance, a thoughtful vision, and a certain level of sartorial brilliance to command the industry's attention. Enter Max Gengos, 24. With a remarkable design stint at Calvin Klein, Gengos's eponymous line proves that he is all of those things. Not only do his structured crop tops and "infinity" hemmed dresses scream "wear me right now," he truly considers the customer first and foremost. After all, there's nothing that makes a fashionista's heart beat faster than thoughtful lining, impeccable craftsmanship, and innovative designs. And lucky for us, Gengos's spring line, "Artic Spring," did not disappoint.

Already smitten with this designer? The Trendologist had some one-on-one time with Gengos to pick his brain about his spring collection and what's to come!

The Trendologist: Congratulations on the incredible Spring 2015 collection! It's absolutely major. What was your inspiration?

Max Gengos:  Thank you! My inspiration for this collection was the concept “Arctic Spring.” When I began designing this season, I was drawn to the shapes and color palette found in the arctic: the undulating white snow banks, the bright blues of melting glaciers, the soft greys of the arctic sky, and the deep navy of the cold sea.

TT: How does what we saw in your spring collection reflect who you are as a designer?

MG: The spring collection is a step forward, reinforcing my vocabulary as a designer. Though all of the styles are somewhat futuristic and minimal, everything is also very feminine. I incorporated many signature design elements in the line: my futuristic form-flattering “incision” wrapping dart seams, the feminine touch of silk organza tipping, and extended linings dipping below skirt hems which reference petticoats of fashion past. My aesthetic is inspired by the marriage of futurism with the golden age of couture. The balance between silhouette, details, and the luxurious fabrics that I use reflects the fusion of those elements.

TT:  Let's talk about those luxurious fabrics -- you use everything from silk crepe, to lightweight tweed, to organza! How do you go about choosing fabrics?

MG: The fabrics are so wonderful to the touch, which is paramount to my design process. I want each piece to feel special and to do so I made an effort to take everything to the next level from a fabric standpoint. When I shop in boutiques, I run my hands through the clothes hanging on the rack and then react to the fabrics [that] interest me. I want my clients to be surprised by how special the fabrics are to the touch.

TT: You are committed to “responsible luxury.” Could you explain to Trendologist readers what that means?

MG: My brand is built upon a foundation of “responsible luxury.” Just as high-end designers dictate the trends each season, so too should they set the precedent for accountability and responsibility in manufacturing [as well as] sourcing practices. I believe that it is important to know that what you wear was made by individuals who are treated with respect, given fair wages, and working in well-maintained facilities. Each step of my production process is closely scrutinized to ensure that I only work with the most responsible vendors. I source my fabrics from the finest mills in France, Italy, and the United States. I [also] do all of my garment production in high end facilities right in New York City, where I can oversee each step of the production process as my line is built.

TT: What is your overall design process like? 

MG: I start my design process with an inspiration reference at first. I’m usually drawn to nature, space, and science, so that is the jumping-off point for me. From there, I put pencil to paper and just start sketching. It becomes a sort of subconscious process—the designs just flow out and I always end up with a ton of overdevelopment that I edit down. I will [then] match sketches with the fabrics I have selected from my mills. [After that], I get to the more technical side with measurements, interior finishing, and specifying all of the finer details to my production team before they make the garments. After that point, I fit everything myself- and that is really where I can make sure my clothes maintain the same finesse as my sketches. It is of the utmost importance to me that my hand physically goes into everything I create, down to every last detail.

TT: Who is the “Max Gengos” girl? 

MG: The Max Gengos woman is confident, intelligent, and sexy. The clothes this season are very feminine and flattering, as many [pieces feature] fuller skirts and nipped-in waists, but the styling of the pieces are definitively sleek and sharp. My customer confidently owns her femininity, and I strive to highlight the body underneath the clothes when I design. I want to make pieces that people can feel beautiful, smart, and secure in. I don’t believe in putting everything on display at once; it's more sexy to highlight one part of the body and keep everyone guessing at the rest.

TT:  I know playing favorites is nearly impossible, but what is one piece from your spring collection that Trendologist readers MUST have in their closets?

MG:  This is always a tough question! I will say that my Navi crop top, which I did in two amazing qualities from a mill I work with in Italy-- a navy cotton/nylon shimmer lightweight tweed, and an ice blue “techno-quilted” cotton/nylon--surprised me. I did not expect that style to stand out as much as it does. I think it’s because there are so many ways to style the crop top, that you could really have fun with it.

TT: What can we expect from you for Fall 2015?

MG: For fall, I will be pushing the silhouettes a bit more forward, and adding some very special fabric qualities from the mills I work with in Europe. I’m going to be exploring texture and negative space and executing everything in a darker, moodier color palette.

TT: Where do you see your line in five years?

MG: I would love to see my brand expand across many product categories in the future. Women’s Ready-To-Wear is still going to be the center of my line, but I would love to see the Max Gengos aesthetic translated into shoes, accessories, fragrance, and home.

TT: What advice do you have for aspiring designers who want to launch their own line?

MG: If you know that you want your own line, I suggest starting to hone in on your craft as early as you can. Get the appropriate training, internships, and experience before you make the leap out on your own. Launching your own line does not just involve being a great designer, there are so many other pieces—you have to approach it as a business, and handle everything as such. At the end of the day, designing is just a small part of what goes into having your own line. Like a meticulously constructed garment, all of the parts need to be given the same attention to detail in order to create something truly great.

Completely obsessed with Max Gengos?  Don't blame you. Be sure to follow him on Twitter and Instagram for some very chic updates.

All photos courtesy of Max Gengos.

xx

Mens Spring 2015: Would You Date That?

As every fashion nerd knows, there's something undeniably attractive about a stylish guy. Okay, he doesn't need to know the difference between Brioni and Boglioli, but a man who can put together a solid outfit and has some level of trend awareness is a major turn on. However, for every coveted menswear trend that we're dying to see Bradley Cooper and Joseph Gordon Levitt try, there are a slew of fashion fads that are completely undateable. For your viewing pleasure, and a great way to review the latest menswear collections, let's play a little game called "Would You Date That," shall we? The ranking remains the same as always: 0= No way, 10= Here to stay.

Mono-Printed Suits: 3

Goodbye, traditional suit and tie-- spring is all about zesty, mono-prints. Though the type of print is up to the tastemaker, several collections have on thing in common: their mono-printed suits honor "in your face" patterns. Jeremy Scott's fast food craze continued at the Moschino men's show with soda pop themed suits. Equally bold, psychedelic color-blocking was all the rage at Alexander McQueen. On the other hand, Christopher Kane's mono-printed suits boasted subtle, yet undeniably futuristic, lines. And of course, florals ran rampant on the catwalk. Yohji Yamamoto smartly paired scarce florals with a baggy silhouette. Always the Euro romantic, Dolce & Gabbana's spring collection provided an alluring mixture of florals and ornate masonry. The Verdict: Whoever sports a mono-print suit is undeniably confident, but this trend ranks dangerously low on the scale. Matching separates is a surefire way for any fashionisto to effortlessly make a statement; however, this menswear trend screams trying too hard. And how annoying would it be if your beau's ensemble received more attention than yours did? So annoying. Unless the pattern in question is a small polka dot or seersucker, stay far away from he who wears mono-prints. (Moschino Look 1)

Stylish Stripes: 8

To be unapologetically blunt, the stripes phenomenon is nothing new. Everyone from sailors to Elvis circa "Jailhouse Rock" sported the classic lines. However, the nautical-friendly pattern has received an au courant  makeover. At Kolor, Junichi Abe presented head-to-toe stripes, yet the wide bands offered a modernist take on this staple.  Hedi Slimane's Saint Laurent boys epitomized California cool: their stripes were paired with tight leather pants, embellished jackets, and wide-brimmed hats. Layering was key at Dior Homme as primary-colored stripes are thrown between crisp oxford shirts and pinstriped suits. Stripes are even on trend for outerwear as Emporio Armani showed off some seriously major slickers. And let's not forget Topman Design's take on this fad: with a bold color palette and flared jeans, design director Gordon Richardson is clearly scheming up a seventies revival.  The Verdict: Provided this trend is styled realistically (read: no wide-brimmed hats), stripes are a must for men this spring. Though the phenomenon is undeniably preppy, the pattern is versatile enough to be worn by every man. A striped shirt seems like the obvious option; however, jackets and shorts are two fresh alternatives. Or have your man revitalize this trend with unpredictable hues. Either way, the striped shirt guy would definitely make it to a second date. (Dior Homme Look 8)

The Unconventional Hoodie: 6

Hoodies have always been a staple in mens' closets; however, gone are the days when neutral zip-up and pull-overs are the only acceptable way to wear this piece. This spring, look out zany colors, bold patterns, and even unpredictable fabrics. Balmain's menswear collection presented electric colors and geometric shapes, which were cooly styled with moto-inspired pants. No stranger to making a statement, James Long revitalized this piece with patches of color and loads of stripes. But no example of innovative hoodies is as unconventional as Umit Benan's collection. Nothing turns heads quite like perforated sheen. The spring shows even offered new ways to style the trusted hoodie. For exmaple, Gosha Rubchinskiy's models sported jean jackets over their zip-ups-- two trends in one look. Similarly, Ami mixed classic hoodies with bold striped coats. The Verdict: Cozy, versatile, and the ideal piece to snag from your beau, a hoodie is definitely dateable. But unless the fashionisto in question is experimenting with new textures and prints, this trend could steer in the way of basic and safe. A surefire way to bring this phenomenon to to the next level is by layering. Isn't there something sexy about a guy with a hoodie and leather jacket? (Balmain Look 15)

The Reinvented Bomber: 9

Look out, hoodie: there's another casual jacket that's getting a makeover. Though the bomber already screams effortlessly chic, the newest takes on this fad pushes the sartorial envelope just enough. Silky prints and subtle metallics cascaded down the runway at Dries Van Noten while Fendi's take on the bomber paid homage to the T-Birds with cool leather. While Brioni gave the classic silhouette a very sporty twist, Kris Van Assche spruced this piece up with sharp lapels and bold stripes. And then there was Marc Jacobs, who adorned his bomber jacket with an attention grabbing flamingo. The Verdict: Unless the man in question is sporting a flamingo-embellished jacket, which could either mean he has a great sense of humor or is already waving some major red flags, this trend is insanely dateable. And for all of you who have watched Grease a few too many times, this piece isn't strictly for goodie two-shoes. Your man can give this trend a much-needed edge with ripped jeans and ultra-cool aviators. (Dries Van Noten Look 32)

Daring Denim: 5

It seems as if we've been obsessed with denim-on-denim for many seasons, but this new take on the trend exceeds the traditional Canadian tuxedo. For example, Junya Watanabe's menswear collection boasted loads of patchwork denim while Sibling jazzed up the American fabric with jeweled applique. However, there were swarms of more traditional ways to rock denim. Christopher Bailey tucked a jean jacket underneath an equally relaxed blaze at Burberry Prorsum, and Miharayasuhiro played it safe with denim jacket and matching pants. Trussardi was inbetween the spectrum with a bold denim blazer and trousers. The Verdict: The datability of this trend rests on how it's styled. While a chambray and jeans is undeniably sexy, a man in embellished ensemble would most likely upstage your very own outfit. And we all know that's not the foundation for a lasting relationship. If your guy is looking to revitalize his denim, layering or a patchwork shirt is a healthy mix between the two. (Junya Watanabe Look 6)

Utilitarian Jumpsuits: 1

While this isn't one of the biggest trends for spring 2015, the utilitarian jumpsuit did have quite the impact. At Kenzo, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim's jumpsuit was reminiscent of a race car driver's uniform with some subtle color-blocking and sporadic patches of honor. The trend quickly took a show-stopping turn at Louis Vuitton with a jumpsuit that's covered in rivets and grommets.  3.1 Phillip Lim, on the other hand, opted for clean minimalism in a versatile neutral. The Verdict: As much as we all love Billy Joel's "Uptown Girl" music video, a potential beau who sports a jumpsuit as ready-to-wear is questionable on multiple levels. Occupation aside, save the onesies for young boys. (Kenzo Look 33)

What do you think about these trends? Are they dateable? Sound off below!

All runway photos courtesy of Style.com

 xx