Friday 8 July 2011

Luke-Warm Couture

I'm always so excited to see couture: the detail and the real artistic quality ceases to amaze me. Except for this season. Let it be known, ladies and gents, Fall 2011 Couture is one of the most disappointing couture seasons I have witnessed. I always wish that I grew up in the days of awesome couture. Hubert de Givenchy, need I say more? One day, I think to myself, fashion will retrieve back to the days of amazing couture. Still waiting. Now don't get me wrong, some of the couture collections were phenomenal, but they weren't incredible as a whole.  Now you're in for a little rant/ praise session.

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Biggest disappointment of this season: Alber Elbaz, you're needed at Christian Dior . While Dior's couture is usually very similar in silhouette, each look is classy and chic. This, on the other hand, maintains some sof the previous silhouettes. And then some other stuff. Like that striped poncho?  Not a fan and I usually love ponchos! I think my main problem with this whole collection is how mismatched everything was. When done right, mismatched can be really chic and exude personal style. But when doen wrong,  as seen at Dior, it can look incredibly sloppy. And those 1970's inspired maxis towards the middle of the show? Where did that even come from? I'm sorry Bill Gaytten, but you're not impressing me.


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Givenchy couture never fails to have intricate details and universal approval. While this collection is beyond fabulous and beautiful, I feel like I've seen this collection before. Maybe Spring 2011 Couture?  And Fall 2010 Couture? Don't get me wrong, all three collections are gorgeous, but they're all too similar. Couture isn't supposed to be similar, it's supposed to be unique.  I'm really hoping to see something new next couture season. I'm thinking some color...



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Although I'm not a personal fan of this Asian-inspired collection, I will say that it's inspiration is focus and the collection, as a whole, is very cohesive. I do love collection cohesiveness so thank you, Giorgio! While the collection is very detailled, I don't really picture it hitting mainstream, which is kind of sad. The slick dress of Armani Prive's previous collection was so thought provoking and looked awesome on Anne Hathaway. Some of these looks, I think, will be good for editorials.  But I can't see anyone rocking these looks for the Emmys, Globes, SAGs, or  anything. 


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Finally, this is the couture I was craving. Mr Valli is creating some amazing collections lately, I'm very impressed. From start to finish, this couture collection epitomizes glamour. And I think by now you must know how I feel about glamour.  Each and every piece has some artistic flare or intricate details that screams couture. Even the most basic looks have an  effortless allure to them, not just casual. There's something so effortlessly Parisian about some of the looks that I was smitten with. While I don't think she'd like full leopard ball gowns, some of these looks are so circa Audrey Hepburn, which I love.  Thank you, Mr. Valli for creating something truly amazing. Or else I probably would've gone into a fashion coma.



BOUCHRA JARRAR
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Boring, boring, and more boring. While I'm sure the execution of the looks were great, this is something I'd expect for Pre-Fall. I understand that big details might not be everyone's thing, but why spend time and money on a couture collection if you're going to produce anticouture? Where did the creativity go, Ms. Jarrar? Riddle me that.

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I think it's safe to say that Chanel made a comeback since its disappointing Resort show (okay...well I thought it was disappointing).  From classic suits to amazing gowns, Karl Lagerfeld gave us a lot to work with, literally. There were 69 looks!  While each look embodied its own personality, for lack of a  better term, the entire collection paid homage to Coco Chanel's original idea of a modernized and classic woman. Take the suits, for example: they are all so ladylike and the tweed is undeniably Chanel, but the silhouettes on some give this classic look a  splash of millenium style. The detailing  and artistic innovation of this collection makes it truly couture worthy. Beyond impressive. 

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Besides the phrase "Winter Wonderland," I would describe this Saab collection as "a slew of Red Carpet looks." I guess my inner Rachel Zoe was coming out because I was thinking up potential celebrities to wear these dresses. I can't really say anything about the details or the technique because it's typical Elie Saab. In terms of the actual looks, I didn't expect anything more or less. It was just...typical Elie Saab. Although this may sound disappointing, it's not that much of a tragedy because Elie Saab couture is always beautiful, just predictable. ANYWAYS, let's talk celebs. Couldn't you picture Taylor Swift's thin figure and blonde curls in the short brown tulle number?  Or what about Olivia Wilde rocking the sparkling blue gown with a plunging V? Maybe Hailee Steinfeld rocking this white mini with cobalt blue clutch or some really funky jewels? And the oh so revealing beige and silver gown is so Beyonce it's painful. I could go on, but I think you understand where I'm coming from.

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Well, Jean Paul Gaultier definitely wins the award "Collection that made me LOL." To be fair, this is typical Jean Paul Gaultier and the collection's creativity and innovation is so couture, but it's just way too crazy for me. I really have mixed emotions about this collection. It's not my personal taste; however, I do admire how unique it is. I think if I were to observe this in a smug way, I wouldn't be giving this collection the creative praise it truly deserves. I'll just leave it at this: like it or hate it, this couture fall is truly wearable art. Power to you, Mr. Gaultier!


AZZEDINE ALAIA

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This collection, more than any other couture collection I've ever seen, epitomizes couture for the modern woman. Thanks to old movies and my inner granny,  I'm spoiled by the idea of a minimalist couture: I always expect these fabulously over-the-top pieces and Oscar worthy dresses. I know it's a problem, but that's just how I think. Azzedine Alaia's was a happy balance of what I always expect and the reality of couture. The silhouettes weren't the full ball gowns that I envision; however,  I was enamored with this collection.  While a lot of people put emphasis on gowns and other looks, I loved the focus on jackets in this collection: a fabulous array of fashion staples. And the materials that were used to build this collection were so couture-worthy, yet wearable. Actually, I would describe this collection as wearable couture.  Yes, the looks were innovative, but nothing like Jean Paul Gaultier. Although I'm a personal fan of over the top couture, I'm okay with this too. After all, fashion is all about evolving. 





xx
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