Monday, 6 February 2012

Couture is Haute Again!

I'm literally beaming: this is the first time in a while that  I've been unbelievably pleased with couture. Most of the collections are innovative and the looks are breath-taking. Literally, breath-taking..Consequently,  it makes picking my absolute favorite collections that more difficult.

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It's official: I now have faith in Bill Gaytten. His previous couture collection almost made me sick to my stomach. While I'm a strong proponent for removing John Galliano after his scandal,  Dior's Couture Fall 2011 left me confused and genuinely upset. Spring 2012, on the other hand, is brilliant. The looks are less..volumized. Even though the silhouettes were not as "in your face" as before, the detailing, structure, and execution of each piece is definitely worth talking about. While these looks are definitely more wearable than your typical avant garde creations,the details really make this collection "couture worthy." The sheer looks bring out old school glamour  with  a hint of sex appeal. And those extravagant evening gowns? They definitely pay homage to Christian Dior himself while adding a modern twist. This collection actually makes me excited to see what else Gaytten has up his sleeve.

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I've been a little tired of Givenchy couture lately: for the past few collections, I felt as if  Riccardo Tisci gave us the same beautiful, white, and ethereal dresses. Sure, each dress is gorgeous; however, I was feeling a major case of deja vu.  As a skeptical New Yorker, I love me some black, so the white was a lot for me to take in.  This collection was just what I was looking for: dark colors and edgy detailing to-boot! One thing that I love about Tisci is that he really cares how a couture look appears from any and every angle: he puts just as much- if not, more- effort in the the backs of his creations . In addition to playing with color, Tisci also toyed with different necklines, materials, and silhouettes. The amount of variety Tisci put into this collection is absolutely inspring. Also, I really want Rooney Mara to wear this one.

Elie Saab

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Honestly, there's not much Elie Saab does that I hate. I know  I talk a lot about edgy attire; however, I am and will always be a girly girl. With every collection, Saab brings us beautiful silhouettes, feminine colors, and red carpet hits. Couture Spring 2012 strays away from his latest RTW collection by brining us gorgeous pastels. Although some of the colors and concepts are eerily reminiscent of Marc Jacobs' Resort 2012 collection, I don't mind. Mint is all the rage lately, so Saab is right on trend.  One thing that I love about Saab is his ability to perfectly pair details and silhouettes together. For example, he usually designs either a detailled, column dress or a volumized dress that's simpler. Ladies and gent, this is a collection to watch out for: we're going to see a lot of these looks again.

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By now, you should know how I feel about long sleeves. If you're new to my oh-so fabulous blog, let me break it down for you: I would wear sleeves all of the time if I could.  So obviously, I loved Valentino's latest couture collection. In this collection, Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri utilize the use of sleeves- thank the fashion gods- and make them stylish. I love the patterns and out-of-this world detailing that accompany the sleeves. This collection radiates delicacy and femininity, which I love. 
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I have a borderline inappropriate obsession with Giambattista Valli.  In my humble opinion, couture should be all about wearable art.  Every couture collection, Giambattista goes above and beyond to give us the most beautiful wearable art.  For example, how brilliant is the pink evening gown with that full train? What a fabulous mix between Audrey Hepburn and a modern-day fashionista.  Can we talk about the ruffles on that minimalist jacket?  I don't think so: it's simply too good for words. All of these fantastic details make fashion what it should be: fun. Also, I love how prominent the contrast between black and white is in this collection: it makes the detailing more chic.   Giambattista Valli juxtaposes these phenomenal looks with simplistic silhouettes. I'm casually in love with Giambattista. 


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